Frequently Asked Questions

Here we will try to answer some of your questions, you can always give us a call on 020 3397 4145 or email info@stepflooring.co.uk

Wood Floor sanding FAQ’s

1. Will there be dust in the process?

No. There is very little dust left as we use the latest dust control systems, basically a large vacuum cleaner that all the machines are connected to. We also hoover up thoroughly at the end of the job. 

2. How long does it take?

A single room will usually take 1 day. In the first half of the day the floor is prepared and sanded and a first coat of finish is applied, then further coats of finish are applied. Obviously, much is dependent on the size of the area to be sanded, overall condition of the boards/parquet etc. 

3. How much will it cost?

Please have a look at our pricelist. For a straightforward floor sanding and varnishing service our price is £15.00 per square metre. Laminate, engineered floor, parquet installations are not so straightforward and you may want to have a chat with our representative. 

4. Do I have to clear the room before you arrive?

Ideally yes, but if this is not possible due to lack of storage or an immovable object such as a piano or a sofa, the room can be sanded with some if the bulky furniture still in the room. 

5. Do you have Public Liability Insurance?

We have full public liability insurance.

Public Liability Insurance
from AXA insurance
Public Liability : £1,000,000

6. What about parking?

It would really help us if parking can be arranged prior our arrival, e.g. providing us with parking permits. 

 

Laminate installation FAQ’s

Q. How do I determine the direction in which to install my laminate flooring?

A. To decide where to begin the layout of your floor, consider incoming light. It is usually best to install laminate flooring with the planks running parallel to light coming in windows or glass doors. For any installation, the starting wall should be as long and straight as possible.

Q. Will there be any cutting waste?

A. In an average installation, approximately 7% to 10% of the total area to be covered will be wasted for several reasons, typically cuts, planks damaged during installation, or errors.

Q. What is the reason for the necessary 10mm gap left around the perimeter of the interior and around other obstacles within it?

A.Because laminate flooring is derived from wood, it is subject to expansion caused by room temperatures and humidity levels. An expansion gap is a necessary part of any successful installation because it allows space for the expansion of the floor as it responds to these external influences of temperature and humidity. When it is exposed to warmer temperatures, or to increased humidity, laminate flooring planks expand outward. Leaving out the essential element of an outside gap can cause the buckling of the individual laminate flooring planks as the planks push outward against walls or other obstacles.

Q. How can I get the shine of my floor to increase?

A. The shine can not be modified as it is a manufactured characteristic. Therefore, you must never wax or polish a laminate floor.

Q. Can laminate flooring be installed on steps?

A. Yes, laminate flooring can be installed on steps but with this exceptional installation, the planks should be glued down with regular wood glue. The moldings and transitions need to be nailed down.

Q. Can we install laminate over carpet?

A. No, all carpet and padding should be removed completely prior to installation.

Q. Where can I install laminate wood flooring?

A. Laminate flooring is an extremely versatile flooring product. It can be installed in virtually any room of your home, above or below ground, over wood or concrete. There are several locations that are not recommended for laminate flooring. Because laminate flooring is a wood flooring product it is not recommended that laminates be installed in wet locations such as bathrooms, washrooms, saunas, enclosed porches or verandas, or anywhere that may require wet-mopping. Extended exposure to moisture of this type may cause the core of your laminate flooring to warp or swell. In some instances, with special installation procedures, it is possible to install laminate floors in bathrooms where water will not stand on the floor for any length of time. For bathroom installations, it is recommended you apply a light bead of glue to the tongue on the planks to be used in the areas subject to spills. Also, ensure that all spills are mopped up and dried promptly.

 

Finishes

Using a carefully selected range of finishes, we can help advise on the suitability of different finishes for specific projects.

Whether you require a new finish for your restaurant or shop floor, or a solution more tailored to domestics needs, we can select the solution most suitable for your project.

 

Lacquers (floor varnishing)

1. Matte varnish finish
In the picture on the right you can see a floor varnished with 3 coats (1 primer coat and 2 varnish coats).

 

 

 

 

2. Gloss lacquer finish

High gloss finishes offer a more elegant appearance. These finish types are more common in commercial settings and can be seen everyday on basketball floors and gymnasiums. They will tend to highlight imperfections including dust buildup if you’re not cleaning often. Other complaints include visible foot prints by walking in bare feet.

 

Wood Floor Oiling

The major difference between lacquer and oil is that lacquer forms a tough seal over the wooden floors, whereas the oil penetrates the pores of the grain and needs re-application.

Floors with heavy traffic will need to be re-oiled 2-3 times a year, whereas in domestic homes every second year should suffice. If you choose to lacquer the wooden floor, the advantage is that this should not have to be re-applied. As a general rule, there is little gain in oiling soft woods (such as pine boards), leaving it better suited to hardwood floors.

 

Wood floor staining

The professional way to stain a floor is to sand first leaving your floor silky and smooth then use a stain or even several stains mixed together and diluted. All stains are effected by the colour of the sanded boards. The start color of the boards is the deciding factor as to which other colors you must add to achieve what you want. The floor is then varnished with a clear professional varnish, at least 3 coats applied after the stain has been left over night to dry.

Traditional colours:

Natual Beech	Antique Pine	Redwood
Mahogany	English Oak	Teak

 

Morrells Stains

Colours shown are indicative and are only as accurate as web display allows. We’ll finish with two coats of varnish.

 

Call us on 0203 397 4145 to discuss your project or fill in the free quote form